I write on travel, art, culture, food and heritage.
Ramadan, the Muslim holy month of fasting, is under way – the first Indian religious festival being celebrated since Covid-19 restrictions were eased in March
Ramadan, the Muslim holy month of fasting, is under way – the first Indian religious festival being celebrated since Covid-19 restrictions were eased in March
‘The return of the crowds is a good sign,’ one kebab seller says. But another says: ‘If you talk about sales, it is not satisfactory at all’
It is approaching 5pm and the roads around Delhi’s Jama Masjid, one of India’s largest mosques, are packed with people.
Keepers of kiosks and shops that sell clothes, caps, cold drinks or snacks ar...
Butter chicken from Moti Mahal: a scrumptious recipe and storied history
One of India’s most famous dishes was created accidentally by a chef looking to avoid food waste
Given it was created from leftovers, butter chicken is laudable for the near cult status it has acquired in many a culinary circle. The dish holds pride of place in nearly every Indian restaurant in the world alongside tandoori chicken, from which it evolved. Incidentally, both dishes were the brainchild of one man.
Delectable origins
The story begins with the 1947 partition of India, when Kundan ...
Massive kitchens, unique tastes: India's ancient temple cuisine sits in a class of its own
Many of the country's temples have adopted a long-standing tradition of feeding the masses, allowing pilgrims and travelers alike to enjoy wholesome, delicious meals every day.
Any typical Indian temple, whether in a city or village, will have its own kitchen where these meals are cooked, sanctified and served, and offered free of charge or for a small token price.
But these are no ordinary meals. What sets temple cuisine apart is the taste, which is unique to each location and notoriously ha...
How Indian pickles matured from an ancient art to a world-beating business
India relishes its pickles, and in rural areas, the arrival of mango season sees women gathering together to make achaar in a tradition perfected over generations
No Indian food platter is complete without it, and pickle-making is big business, with exports up over 700 per cent in the last 10 years
Saturday Interview | ‘Covid exposed India’s inequality’
Since 1990, he has been a full-time MKSS activist and a member of the organisation’s decision-making collective.
NIKHIL DEY is one of the founding members of the Mazdoor Kisan Shakti Sangathan (MKSS). Since 1990, he has been a full-time MKSS activist and a member of the organisation’s decision-making collective. A leading social activist, Dey has always been involved in grassroots struggles for land and payment of minimum wages.
He has also been part of the organisation’s involvement in some ...
A cafe near the Taj Mahal that empowered acid attack survivors has closed. But these 'Sheroes' aren't giving up
(CNN) —
Located just a few kilometers from the famed Indian icon in the northern city of Agra, this cafe is managed and staffed by acid attack survivors.
Most of the smiling women working in the venue, founded by India's Chhanv Foundation in 2014, have visibly scarred skin, some bearing damaged eyes, others appearing as if their entire faces have been melted by the horrifying acts of violence.
The cafe -- which also has a library, radio station and informational displays -- has provided them ...
‘Outreach must for Covid-hit kids’
As chairperson of the Delhi Commission for Protection of Child Rights (DCPCR), ANURAG KUNDU is mandated to monitor implementation of the rights of children, commission research studies, inquire into specific complaints/violations of children rights, and advise the Delhi government on policy matters on the issue of early childhood care and development, school education, protection of children from physical, mental or sexual violence, child labour, early marriage, substance abuse, and trafficki...
The story behind laal maas: How the fiery Indian curry beloved by kings got its name
At a food stall that was part of a national handicraft exposition last year, visitors, this writer included, gather around an earthenware pot bubbling away on a wood stove. Coming closer, I am assailed by the twin aromas of spices and burning wood. The cook manning the stall informs me that this is laal maas, a fiery meat dish from the Indian desert state of Rajasthan.
Lacing this information with a warning, he adds with a grin: “It’s not for the faint-hearted. Order it only if you can withst...
What is petha? The wax gourd Indian delicacy that pays bittersweet tribute to the Taj Mahal
Most visitors to India make a beeline for the Taj Mahal, the ethereal white marble monument. But the city of the Taj, Agra, also woos its guests with another offering: a candied sweet that takes its name from the vegetable it is made from. Petha, translucent and delicious, is a candied delicacy that few can avoid tasting, or at least spotting, as it is available in every nook and corner of the city.
Older than the Taj, petha is made from ash gourd and has been part of Agra’s culinary scene fo...
Orchha: A medieval town hidden in central India
Orchha is a unique medieval town in Madhya Pradesh, where a palace was built by a ruler for his friend for a one-day visit and where Lord Rama is not a god but a king. Its most famous temple, Raja Ram, was built accidentally and the deity here gets a guard of honour, not the king.
It was early morning and the sun was about to rise soon. Armed with our camera and mobile phones, we were still struggling to find the best spot to capture the first rays of the sun that make the ambience beautiful....
Daulat ki chaat: why this 500-year-old dessert from Old Delhi is still a firm favourite today
Legend has it that all it takes is the dew from a cold winter moonlit night to turn a pot of milk into an ethereal dessert that goes by the name of daulat ki chaat. Indeed, even today, in parts of northern India, traditional makers of this sweet work through the nights to churn huge cauldrons of milk into a delicate froth, adding sugar and saffron as they go, as well as a liberal garnish of nuts and silver foil. The result is an opulent yet light dessert that has a nutty sweetness and a foamy...
Is this the end for India’s last Chinese-language newspaper? Editor’s death leaves questions over Seong Pow’s future
The Overseas Chinese Commerce of India, or Seong Pow, has been published in Kolkata since 1969 and was once in much demand by the city’s Chinese population
But with the pandemic forcing printing to stop in March, and the elderly editor’s death in July, it is unclear whether another edition will be seen
Religious festivals in India adapt to pandemic ‘new normal’ as followers and businesses miss out on celebrations
The coronavirus pandemic has seen public festival celebrations cancelled that would normally attract thousands of devotees and lift local economies
Instead, people are celebrating in their homes, some ceremonies being live-streamed on Zoom, Facebook, and other social media platforms
The ‘Golden City’ of India: exploring Jaisalmer’s mansions, forts and palaces
Sitting in the Thar Desert in Rajasthan, Jaisalmer is full of grand, historical buildings constructed from yellow sandstone that make them gleam
Formerly a major stopover point along the ancient spice trade route, the city’s rich culture has made it a popular tourist destination
No alternative
Every year, just before Diwali, when the gifting season starts, there’s a clamour across India to boycott Chinese goods and buy Indian products. This has become a kind of seasonal practice over the past few years when literally the entire market is flooded with Chinese goods ~ from cards to gift items, decorative lights, candles and even diyas (earthenware lamps).
Messages requesting people to buy Indian products are sent and forwarded on e-mail as well as SMS and WhatsApp. But these messages...